Rose: Medicinal Beauty

The Decoction of Red Roses made with Wine and used, is very good for the Headach, and pains in the Eyes, Ears, Throat, and Gums, as also for the Fundament, the lower Bowels, and the Matrix, being bathed, or put into them. The same Decoction with the Roses remaining in it is profitably applyed to the Region of the Heart to eas the Inflamation therin; as also St. Anthonies fire, and other Diseases of the Stomach. Being dried and beaten to Pouder, and taken in steeled Wine or Water, it helpeth to stay Womens Courses. 

--Nicholas Culpeper, 1616-1654.

The ancients of many different cultures spent thousands of years discovering and harnessing the knowledge of herbs. As stated by naturalist and herbalist Gregory L. Tilford, author of Edible and Medicinal Plants of the West, "Roughly 40 percent of all drugs in modern use are derived by plants. . . more than 70 percent of botanically derived drugs were discovered from folkloric accounts." Herbs maintain, they heal, they treat, they cure... and they can be downright dangerous and deadly if mishandled. These plants demand great respect.

Besides its uses in medicine, herbs also lend its attributes in beauty products. The rose, the floral symbol of love and romance, is an herb whose medicinal properties have been documented throughout history. Greek poets praised the beautiful flower for its medicinal qualities, and Pliny listed over thirty ailments that were treated with roses. Today, it's common to see rosewater at heath food stores, and rosewater -- the delightfully fragrant byproduct from the distillation of roses -- makes a fantastic, gentle toner for the skin. While you can buy certainly buy rosewater, you also can make your own. If you ask me, it's a far better alternative to the preservative-laden toners sold at "luxury" department stores (not to mention waaaaaay cheaper). When making rosewater, also be sure that the roses haven't been sprayed with pesticides or are chemically treated. Rosa damascena  is the traditional rose to use to make rosewater, but you can also use the lovely Apothecary's Rose (Rosa gallica).

All-natural, cold-processed rose soap made with goat milk, wine, and then handmilled with rosewater, and sprinkled with organic Rosa damascena petals. It is colored a soft pink from using Madder root. 'Will be available soon for purchase in limited quantity in the future.

The recipes to make rosewater vary but an easy one is found in herbalist Rosemary Gladstar's book, Herbs for Natural Beauty. You can find her rosewater recipe online here.

For more information, please see:

Rose information at botanical.com

Herbs for Natural Beauty by Rosemary Gladstar

Edible and Medicinal Plants of the West by Gregory L. Tilford

What's in your beauty products?

Looooong story ahead.

In 2004, I spent some time in Alaska, going to college at UAA studying archaeology. An Irish person such as myself does not have the skin meant for arctic weather, because my skin changed for the worse: my hands were itchy, and my skin cracked and bled. My hands looked so bad that I was wearing cloth mittens everywhere, even indoors. I was suffering and it sucked. I actually thought I had some kind of flesh-eating bacteria. A visit to the dermatologist allowed a diagnosis: eczema, but she just prescribed corticosteroids and sent me on my (unmerry) way (thanks, doctor whomever, for prescribing Prednisone, as that stuff IS POISON). Ahem, anyway. The air is very dry in Alaska, and the prescribed Prednisone, as well as skin lotions, wasn't helping, either.

When I returned home to Oregon, my eczema greatly regressed but it was still bothersome from time to time. I then visited an excellent dermatologist and this doctor helped me understand eczema (and my many allergies). Through my own research and managing the eczema, I came to the understanding that while I always had slight eczema  I have very sensitive skin, and that most soap products bother me.  Any soap product with Sodium Lauryl Sulfate notably causes my eczema to flare up with a vengeance. Therefore, my shampoos and soaps are, of course, free of sulfates. I can't do the dishes without rubber gloves, as dish-washing liquid is murder on my hands. My SLS-free soaps are purchased from soapmakers, and from Trader Joe's.

My experiences eventually led me to the million-dollar question: what's with all the "questionable ingredients" in consumer products, anyway? What's with the labels that scream "Sulfate free" and "Free of parabens" and "Phosphate-free"? A visit to the Environmental Working Group website yields answers to what these ingredients are and informs you of what's in your own products.

Some of the basics:

Sulfates (i.e., the above mentioned Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) are found in just about every cleaner, from garage-floor cleaners to shampoos to soaps to toothpaste. (Yes, you read that correctly: stuff that is used to clean garage floors is also put into your toothpaste and shampoo.) This is the stuff that creates lather in a soap, and as a surfactant, it's good at removing oils from your hair and body. It is also known to be a skin irritant, especially for those who have sensitive skin and eczema. According to Bonnie Rochman's Time  Health article Ingredient Anxiety, another concern regarding Sulfates is that "some of these foaming agents are skin irritants; others combine with petrochemicals to form 1,4-dioxane, which is a probable human carcinogen."

Parabens are found in many beauty products, including cosmetics, deodorants, shampoos, and hair products, and is used as a preservative and anti-fungal agent. Have a look at the label on the back of a hair product, perhaps one that you own and use. Do you see "methyparaben", perhaps? The problem with parabens is that they mimic estrogen; lab tests have indicated endocrine-disrupting compounds. According to the Environmental Working Group, parabens "were found in breast cancer tumors of 19 out of 20 women studied." Scary.

Phthalates are found in a variety of products, including fragrances, cosmetics such as eyeshadow, liquid soaps, nail polish, shower curtains, and more. The Environmental Working Group website states, "Phthalates have been found to disrupt the endocrine system" by affecting sperm counts and reproductive systems in male animals, and studies indicate (U.S. Center for Disease Control’s 2005 National Report on Human Exposure to Environmental Chemicals) it is also linked to liver cancer. Also frightening is that most personal care products don't list phthalates on labels, according to The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.

Other nasty ingredients include but isn't limited to Bisphenol A (BPA),  DMDM hydantoin, Phosphates, and 1,4-dioxane.

Consumers are unknowingly spending money (sometimes, a lot of money) on products containing these harsh ingredients.

Due to my own need for soaps without SLS, I've decided to jump on the soap-making bandwagon. I'll be updating subsequent blog posts with my soap-making experiences. Eventually, the soaps that I'll make (and those that turn out decently enough) will be available for sale through my Etsy page. W00t.

For more information, please see:

Ingredient Anxiety written by Bonnie Rochman
The Environmental Working Group
The Campaign For Safe Cosmetics

All natural soooooap: including Triforce soap! W00t!

Mullein

An unusual plant was growing in my garden. It wasn't until last summer, though, that it became interesting; I had never seen a plant like it before. It grew into a very tall plant, was single-stemmed, and had large, fuzzy leaves. Its curious flowers were yellow in color, clustered around the tip of the plant.

Photo Source Wikipedia.

After it flowered, though, the plant died, which meant it was a biennial.

One evening, as I read Gregory L. Tilford's Edible and Medicinal Plants of the West, I was surprised to see the plant on page 102. Its actual name is Mullein (Verbascum thapus), and it is a medicinal plant used by herbalists (and by Native Americans, historically). When I was sick a month ago, I was also surprised that Mullein is one of the ingredients in Quantum Health's Elderberry Syrup.

Mullein is said to possess strong antimicrobial properties, and is used to treat ear infections, as well. It is also used to relieve congestion, and teas can be purchased online. An infusion of Mullein can be used as a brightening hair rinse for fellow blondes (future self-experiment and blog post!).

According to Tilford's book, while adverse side-effects haven't been noted with Mullein, the seeds are toxic and should never be consumed under any circumstances. In large enough doses the plant can prove to be toxic due to the substances oumarin and rotenone. Don't mess around with this plant without the consultation of an expert, mmmkay?

This post was written for educational purposes only, please see my disclaimer. Consult a doctor before using any herb.

For more reading, see Gregory L. Tilford's Edible and Medicinal Plants of the West
Mullein info at Drugs.com
Mullein info at Alternative Nature Online Herbal

Fight a Cold with Herbs

Warning: Excessive whining ahead.

                                     


This last week, I was really sick. The congestion led to sinusitis. Needless to say, I was miserable. Boohoo! Finally after arming myself with herbs, after a week my energy is returning and I'm starting to feel better.

Indeed, I fought through the illness using some herbal treatments. Tea tree essential oil steam inhalations proved to help tremendously, but herbs that I consumed in the form of syrups, teas, and in soups helped me the most. Fascinated, I researched certain herbs that are known or believed to fight the Common Cold -- there's quite a few of them -- and I'm sharing the knowledge of some of the herbs I researched.

Garlic: This tasty herb -- Allium sativum -- believed to ward off vampires in folkloric tales (and make your breath stinky), is known to have powerful antimicrobial (bacterial, viral, fungal) properties for a variety of illnesses. In controlled placebo studies, Garlic proved to prevent the Common Cold, as well as reducing recovery time and symptom duration for the famed group of rhino viruses. In studies, Garlic tablets also enhanced Natural Killer cells -- a type of Lymphocyte --  in battles against pathogens.

Onion: Although its medicinal uses are unproven, Onion -- Allium cepa -- is used in folk medicine, Chinese medicine, and Indian medicine. It is used to treat the Common Cold, as well as many other illnesses due to believed antimicrobial properties.

Echinacea: Used by Native Americans, Echinacea is a popular herb used in the prevention and treatment of colds and flus, however, Echinacea has also been exploited in commercial use. Three species of Echinacea are used medicinally: Echinacea angustifolia, Echinacea pallida, and Echinacea purpurea. It is important to note that there are differences in the three species, and Echinacea purpurea is considered to be the most potent. However, the plant is not a cure-all, nor does it work miracles. That said, I can personally attest that in my experience, I've found Echinacea to be a reliable herb. I've taken it in bottled extracts and teas. The good Echinacea extracts, taken in droplets, produces a tingling sensation on the tongue. Some people experience side effects to Echinacea (allergic and gastrointestinal).

Elderberry: I have a personal interest and passion for Elderberry, and I'm currently studying it. Oregon has its own wonderful native variety of Elder (Sambucus Cerulea) but Sambucus Nigra (the European Elder) is used in many commercial syrups. Actually, the syrup I used while ill -- Quantum Health Elderberry Syrup -- contains Sambucus Nigra. Elderberry is known to aid sore throats, coughs, and sinus infections. There's some caution to be advised here. Never, ever eat Red elderberries as they are considered toxic. Don't eat unripe berries of the blue Elderberries, either, and don't consume the leaves and stems, as they are also considered toxic. Please be careful when messing with this plant. If you want to use it medicinally, go to the store to buy the syrup or, better yet, see a doctor or nautropath beforehand. Don't try to treat yourself by berry picking.

Anise: The dried fruit parts of Pimpinella anisum is used to treat the Common Cold, Fevers, and inflamations of the mouth. It was used by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, and the Romans would use Anise in cakes called Mustacae, eaten after meals to prevent indigestion. Anise can be taken in teas. It is not to be used during pregnancy. According to naturalist William Turner in 1551, "Anyse maketh the breth sweter and swageth payne" (Source). Great teas can be purchased online.

                             

                                   



This post was written for educational purposes only.

Some sources:

Ct. PDR for Herbal Medicines. June 2006 pNA.
Botanical.com
"Top 5 herbs to battle cold and flu viruses" from Examiner.com

Medicineherbs.net

NCCAM: National Center for Complementary and Alternative Medicine

Cleaning with Herbal Vinegar

Vinegar is awesome stuff. Apple cider vinegar is good for the hair as a rinse (future blog post!), but I want to address a brilliant and eco-friendly usage of vinegar:  It can be used to clean innumerable things! My dear Irish grandmother used it, for instance, with a bit of baking soda to clean the pipes in her house.
Instead of using harsh (and toxic) chemicals to clean your floors, countertops, or bathrooms, as well as discovering an even cheaper way to rather clean than buying the costly alternatives, there's herbal vinegar. Used solely, white distilled vinegar itself is a great cleaner, but the herbs make it better. It's a natural way to clean... and for hippies like me, it even makes the monotonous chore of cleaning f-u-n!

(A few words of caution, however: Don't add vinegar directly to materials containing ammonia, as it can create harmful vapors.)

To make herbal vingear, chop up about a handful of fresh herbs of your choice (lavender, lemon balm, peppermint, or basil, for instance) and steep in vingear (white distilled is the norm) for about five days, out of direct sunlight. Strain the infused vingear into a bottle, and voilà! You now have a natural, eco-friendly cleaner.

For more information, check out this website, and this one, too.

Sweet mint.

We're Jammin'

We're jammin'I wanna jam it with you
We're jammin', jammin',
And I hope you like jammin' too

I've been on a jammy excursion. A tasty one, though, as I've "invented" three of my own herbal jams, and the results have actually been pleasant. I now have Christmas gifts to give to people!

I've come to the conclusion that using pectin is completely unnecessary if you use apples when jam-making, because apples have natural pectin. I love using local Granny Smith apples when making jams (picked off apple trees in Troutdale... free apples FTW!), and you can add a variety of herbs for that extra "kick" of flavor.

Anyway, when researching the internet for basic jam recipes to tweak into my own creations, I came across a recipe that sounds quite interesting: A Caramel Apple Jam invented by Mr. Robert Atwood. I gave his recipe a try, with some modifications: I used less white sugar and replaced it with honey; I used lemon juice, and slightly more butter. All in all, it's a decent jam, and the cinnamon truly makes this jam taste like apple pie.

Apples freshly picked off trees in Troutdale, OR. 

Herbal Preserves

Well, Thanksgiving is over, and everyone's being good consumers and strengthening the economy with their holiday shopping (and providing free entertainment by fighting over socks), and I'm still in a feasted-stupor. Alas, I won't be venturing out on Black Friday.

But, it's good to be relaxing at home, because lounging around lazily -- still in my pajamas at 6:00 PM -- actually has its productivity: I get to contemplate Christmas gifts!

I like to give people Christmas gifts that are actually useful and functional, and what's better than to give something to spread on toast in the morning? Unfortunately, I missed Huckleberry season and didn't have a chance to hike in the Mt. Hood National Forest to pick those yummy berries, so homemade Huckleberry preserves are out of the question this year. However, herbal preserves and the similarly-related are, basically, the next best thing (at least, in my humble opinion). For an herb jelly, you can use thyme, lemon thyme, lavender, rosemary, mint, or lemon balm with this basic recipe:

Herb Jelly:

2 1/2 lbs. (5 cups) tart apples
2 cups water
2 cups sugar
Juice of one lemon
3 tbsp. chopped fresh herbs
1 tbsp. white wine vinegar (optional)

Lavender is great to add to honey.

Another great idea to jar is to make herb honey.

I'll make little baskets containing these jarred concoctions along with herbal sachets and other little goodies. Then, I'll hand them out merrily as I dance around in a santa hat.

I guess I better get in the kitchen soon!

Soapwort Shampoo

I was pleasantly surprised when my mother told me that my dear Irish grandmother would use soapwort (saponaria officinalis) -- a perennial herb -- as a means to make a natural laundry detergent. Using the boiled concoction of soapwort roots and leaves makes a natural soap; a hygienic practice used since ancient Rome.

I recently made my first batch of shampoo using the boiled concoction of Soapwort with several drops of Rosemary essential oil added, and then bottled. It's as backwoods as you can get as it's not as soapy as I had hoped, but I also didn't boil so much of the roots (as I should have), and the roots are especially soapy.

A shampoo can also be made with dried Soapwort and egg yolk:

1 cup hot water
1 tablespoon dried soapwort
1 egg yolk
lemon juice (optional)

Pour the hot water over the Soapwort, whisk or stir well, and and allow to cool. In a seperate dish, whisk the egg yolk and lemon juice, and then add to the soapwort infusion. Store in the fridge. Be sure to rinse your hair well when using this recipe.

Soapwort. Photo (c) S. Waters.

Rose and Vanilla Perfume

First blog post!

My interest in herbalism has prompted me to explore natural and herbal perfumery.

Since retailing perfumes contain toxic indredients, a truly natural and homemade perfume is worth exploring.

Using herbs and essential oils to make perfumes is an art and science. I'm currently fermenting an organic rose and vanilla perfume which consists of key ingredients. While perfume making is a total blast, it is also a time-consuming process. My developing concoction has sat in a jar for two weeks now, and this particular perfume won't be ready for several more weeks, as the combined scents take considerable time to blend and mature.

How to make your own perfume? Start by pouring some vodka in a small glass bottle, one that you can cork. To the vodka, add an organic vanilla bean. Slightly crush it and allow it to sit for a week, then strain and re-bottle. Add a tablespoon of rosewater and about ten drops of rose essential oil, and about ten drops of oil of vanilla. (If you seek a great oil of vanilla, check out Ananda Apothecary's vanilla oil choices.) Also add about five drops of ylang ylang essential oil. Allow the perfume to blend for a month; strain the mixture again before using.

Apothecary Rose from my garden.